Bird dogs are either the best in the world or worthless. At least that’s my experience the past 40 years. Hoolie the Brittany Spaniel belongs to Bob and Ann Sherer, our contributing editors who cover a long stretch of water from NY to FL. I met Hoolie on their boat in Key West a couple of weeks back. He so reminded me of my champion Brittany that I kept calling him “Red” while I lounged on their boat on a stunning February day. I left them for points north on a Saturday afternoon, driving along the ICW to visit Waterway Guide friends, clients and cruising editors. The destination was Mile Zero. Hoolie prompted warm memories of grouse hunts in the Blue Ridge and chasing pheasants in Kansas. I miss you, Red.

Is it the AIWW, the AICW or the ICW?  From our research at Waterway Guide, it depends on who you ask. We all call it the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. However, The Army Corps of Engineers abbreviates it AIWW, officially. The United States Coast Guard labels it the ICW or the AICW. The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway Association uses AIWA. Don’t get confused. It’s all the same. Most of us call it the “ICW” or, in hushed tones, “the ditch.” Then there’s the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW). You get the picture.

Next stop was Marathon for an annual party of America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association members and friends hosted by Waterway Guide cruising editors George and Pat Hospodar. Over 100 boaters turned out at Banana Bay for a pot luck afternoon feast, live music, dancing and libations. AGLCA’s Kim Russo was on site, as was Curtis Stokes, one of the most knowledgeable and dedicated boat brokers in the country. We spent the afternoon comparing notes, assessing the joys of cruising and catching up with old friends. Another remarkable day south of the 25th parallel.

My mission following the Miami Boat Show was to visit with our top clients and friends along the ICW. Destination Mile Zero in Norfolk. Along the way I wanted to immerse in all things ICW. What better way to start than staying in Marathon at the Ranch House? Diana, Aunt Ginger and their Italian Greyhound, Bella, were beyond hospitable. Impeccable manners and rooms so clean I was ashamed to come home.

Chris Ferguson at Morningstar Marina Golden Isles just outside of Hilton Head, SC took time to visit and show me around. The new docks and slips will be ready in the weeks ahead, along with the renovated restaurant. I’ll be back one winter, soon.

Sea Pines and Harbour Town Yacht Basin are jewels of the low country. Nancy Cappelmann is the dockmaster and extended all courtesies when I came to call. Another delightful afternoon watching the boats come and go on Calibogue Sound.

Beaufort (Bew’-fert), SC is one of those towns along the ICW, or anywhere actually, that you just want to sit in until there’s a real reason to leave. The waterfront, downtown and antebellum neighborhoods are so genteel. Boats docked at the Downtown Marina and moored in the Beaufort River say it all. Keep an eye on this sleepy town. There’s a new development coming. Thanks for the tip Robb - the Anchorage 1770 was perfect – as was the dinner.

Charleston, SC is still in the low country. That was next. US 17 offers you an opportunity to breathe. I95 to the west might get you north and south at 75 miles per hour but 17 shows you the land. St. Johns Yacht Harbor and Charleston City Marina are two stops on the ICW that attract boaters for all the reasons you might expect. Great food, top-notch facilities and generosity abound here.

Georgetown, SC is one of those towns that should not be missed. Like so many little main streets along the ICW, there is subdued vibrancy as locals and visitors discover and rediscover the worth of the waterfront. Harborwalk Marina is a best kept secret! I ran into Hank George and his wife Seale, who were docked there. He’s the new president of Salty Dawg Sailing Association, an organization that’s doing some amazing work around the world and running rallies to beautiful places.

Back on 17 N, I set my sights on Southport, NC leaving the SC low country and smell of marsh mud behind. Southport Marina and South Harbour Village Marina are favorites for all boats on this stretch of the waterway and Southport is a gem on Cape Fear. The ocean is always near, from Oak Island to Bald Head Island, the island of no cars.

Kevin and Mary King pulled into South Harbour Village Marina while I was there. Headed back home to Bath, NC on their 39 Mainship. He’s going back to the Bering Sea to work for a few months. She said they love Waterway Guide.

Beaufort (Boe’-fert), NC is a longtime favorite destination. From the Pecan Tree Inn and the Beaufort Grocery Company to the great little shops along Front Street, the Beaufort Docks Marina edges the waterfront nicely. This is fishing and cruising country. The Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament is anchored here and has been a major event for 60 years. Jarrett Bay Boatworks on Core Creek north of Morehead City and Beaufort is one of the east coast’s preeminent yacht building, repair and maintenance facilities. The massive yard, docks, lifts and resources are a statement to all things nautical. Just drive through if you’re ever in the neighborhood.

Washington, NC, River Forest Manor in Belhaven, and Plymouth all extended their courtesies when I called to visit. Those three communities are as integral to the character of the ICW as cypress trees and tannin-stained water. Little Washington just keeps getting better. Belhaven is the birthplace of the ICW because that’s where the final dig of the north/south canal was connected. And talk about food! Belhaven’s scene is astounding the critics.

No Wake Zones are usually reserved for boats. But rising water levels in some of the low-lying towns have prompted highway crews to erect signs that seem oddly out of place. But, it appears that homeowners who never thought they were on a waterfront are asking cars to slow down, too.

Manteo, Coinjock and Norfolk rounded out the trip. Roanoke Island is homecoming to me and the waterfront is as delightful as ever. Everyone knows about Coinjock. Great food, dedicated staff and delightful dockage is what built Louis’ business there.  Finally reaching Mile Zero in Norfolk, the Waterside District sums up what the ICW means to so many - opportunities to celebrate our maritime heritage and attract all of us to our waterfronts. The AICW, or AIWW if you like, is 1,240 miles of bays, channels, ditches, sounds and rivers from Key West to Norfolk. It’s a national treasure. Whether by boat or by car, the exploration is delightful.

This image sums it up. Calabash, NC where the shrimp and fishing boats come and go, weather permitting, delivering their catch to the local restaurants and beyond. Go there.