SKIPPER'S HANDBOOK

The following is an excerpt from the Skipper's Handbook, a compilation of helpful cruising information and advice to be found in all six Waterway Guide editions: 

Hurricanes

With visions of hurricanes Isabel, Rita, Wilma, and Katrina still fresh in the country's collective minds, more folks are tuned into turbulent tropical weather than ever. Hurricanes can create vast swaths of devastation, but ample preparation can help increase your boat's chances of surviving the storm.
While all coastal areas of the country are vulnerable to the effects of a hurricane (especially from June to November), the Gulf Coast, Southern and Mid-Atlantic states typically have been the hardest hit. And even cities far from the ocean such as Annapolis, MD, aren't immune to the damages these storms cause, either-WATERWAY GUIDE'S offices were inundated with more than 4 feet of water from Hurricane Isabel in September 2003.

Hurricane Conditions
■ According to the National Weather Service, a mature hurricane may be 10 miles high with a great spiral several hundred miles in diameter. Winds are often well above the 74 mph required to classify as hurricane strength-especially in gusts.
■ Hurricane damage is produced by four elements: tidal surge, wind, wave action and rain. Tidal surge is an increase in ocean depth prior to the storm. This effect, amplified in coastal areas, may cause tidal heights in excess of 15 to 20 feet above normal. Additionally, hurricanes can produce a significant negative tidal effect as water rushes out of the waterways after a storm.
■ The most damaging element of a hurricane for boaters is usually wave action. The wind speed, water depth and the amount of open water determine the amount of wave action created. Storm surge can transform narrow bodies of water into larger, deeper waters capable of generating extreme wave action.
■ Rainfall varies; hurricanes can generate anywhere from 5 to 20 inches, or more, of rain. If your boat is in a slip, you have three options: If it is in a safe place, leave it where it is; move it to a refuge area; or haul it and put it on a trailer or cradle.
■ The National Weather Service reports that wind gusts can exceed reported sustained winds by 25 to 50 percent. So, for example, a storm with winds of 150 mph might have gusts of more than 200 mph.
■ Some marinas require mandatory evacuations during hurricane alerts. Check your lease agreement and talk to your dockmaster if you're uncertain. After Hurricane Andrew, Florida's legislature passed a law prohibiting marinas from evicting boats during hurricane watches and warnings. Boaters may also be held liable for any damage that their boat does to marina piers or property; check locally for details.
■ Rivers, canals, coves and other areas away from large stretches of open water are best selected as refuges. Your dockmaster or fellow mariners can make suggestions. Consult your insurance agent if you have questions about coverage.
■ Many insurance agencies have restricted or cancelled policies for boats that travel or are berthed in certain hurricane-prone areas. Review your policy and check your coverage, as many insurance companies will not cover boats in hurricane-prone areas during the June through November hurricane season. Riders for this type of coverage are notoriously expensive.

Preparing Your Boat
■ Have a hurricane plan made up ahead of time to maximize what you can get done in amount of time you'll have to prepare (only 12 hours in some cases). You won't want to be deciding how to tie up the boat or where to anchor when a hurricane is barreling down on you. Make these decisions in advance.
■ Buy hurricane gear in advance (even if there is no imminent storm). When word of a hurricane spreads, local ship stores run out of storm supplies (anchors and line, especially) very quickly.
■ Strip every last thing that isn't bolted down off the deck of the boat (canvas, sails, antennas, bimini tops, dodgers, dinghies, dinghy motors, cushions, unneeded control lines on sailboats-everything), as t his will help reduce windage and damage to your boat. Remove electronics and valuables and move them ashore.
■ Any potentially leaky ports or hatches should be taped up. Dorades (cowls) should be removed and sealed up with their deck cap.
■ Make sure all systems on board are in tip-top shape. Fuel and water tanks should be filled, bilge pumps should be in top operating condition, and batteries should be fully charged.
■ You will need many lengths of line to secure the boat with-make certain it's good stretchy nylon (not Dacron). It's not unusual to string 800 to 1000 feet of dock line on a 40-foot boat in preparation for a hurricane.
■ If you can, double up your lines (two for each cleat), as lines can and will break during the storm. Have fenders and fender boards out and make sure all of your lines are protected from chafe.
■ If you're anchored out, use multiple large anchors; there's no such thing as an anchor that is too big. If you can, tie to trees with a good root system, such as mangroves or live oaks. Mangroves are particularly good because their canopy can have a cushioning effect. Be sure mooring lines include ample scope to compensate for tides 10 to 20 feet above normal. Keep in mind that many municipalities close public mooring fields in advance of the storm.
■ Lastly, do not stay aboard and to weather out the storm. Many people have been seriously injured (or worse) trying to save their boats during a hurricane.

Returning Safely After the Storm
­■ Before hitting the road, make sure the roads back to your boat are safe for travel. Beware of dangling wires, weakened docks, bulkheads, bridges and other structures.
■ Check your boat thoroughly before attempting to move it. If returning to your home slip, watch the waters for debris and obstructions. Navigate carefully, because markers may be misplaced or missing. If your boat is sunk, arrange for engine repairs before floating it, but only if it's not impeding traffic. Otherwise, you will need to remove it immediately.